亲爱的沁芝
难得访问得到这样的人，mummy真的很欣赏他，欣赏他的思路，他的措辞，他的创作。
他看见我能明白他，非常高兴，抓着我拍照，握紧我的手。
觉得茫茫人海中，这样的meeting of the minds，太难得。
他说，厨师不能丢失自己，因为他要做的事情是传递情感。不小心弄丢自己，那怎么办？个人情感，那是世界上最独特的事情。我想到作母亲的我，女儿的我，妻子的我，自己的我。
如果不小心弄丢自己，那怎么办？
我要传递给沁芝的怎么办？
Massimo Bottura。
这名大厨有一个大于厨师的形象，好像一个很有思想的人。
“Osteria Francescana，意思是灵魂的休憩处。”意大利名厨Massimo Bottura谈到自己位于意大利北部城市摩典那（Modena）的餐厅时，这么说。
风格深深植于艾米利亚-罗马涅（Emilia Romagna）传统而高素质食产的Bottura，坚持朴实道地之外，善以感性而积极的手法，诠释家乡的味道，使得这家亲密的28人座位餐厅在尊重传统之上，表现出难得的free spirit。
烹饪世界早已注意到这点。去年，Bottura的米其林三星导师Alain Ducasse给了他“现在、未来最棒的意大利厨师”赞誉，两颗米其林星级的Osteria Francescana更排在世界50最佳餐厅名单中的第六位，带给意大利烹饪界最崇高的荣誉。
不断在新、旧、新与旧之间思索，试图拆除一切藩篱、开拓崭新的文化体验的Bottura1月份来新，参加意大利风味国际日（International Day of Italian Cuisines).
IDIC is a global event that celebrates authentic and quality Italian culinary feats and marching into its fourth year, IDIC will take place on the 17 January 2011 with a grand launch happening simultaneously across Genova (Italy), New York City (United States of America) and Singapore.
谈到意大利美食，他说，意大利美食关乎的是知识、历史、文化的传承：“一代一代，从祖母到母亲，然后到孩子地传下来。意大利人享用美食的方式，就是围桌，分享美味之余也分享情感。
作为厨师，我认为那情感对烹饪的人来说太重要，那情感是从小到大到现在，积累在身体血液里的，小时候，我记得和兄弟在厨房捉迷藏，藏在桌下时，看到祖母用传统的制作面食，是细致如那样的情感。”
Italian food is transferring knowledge, history, culture, from grandmother to mother and to child. The italian way to eat is to b around the table, sharing food n emotion.And as a chef, emotion, being an important part of cooking, the emotion is how we grow up as a child,i remembered seeing my grandmother rolling pasta on a rolling pin, as i was running around the kitchen and under the table playing with my brothers .My grandmother was making tortellinis…
他说，意大利料理在Gualtiero Marchesi之后的90年代陷入黑洞，这个时候只有混乱，许多厨师失去自我，但经过反省， 新世纪降临以后，冒起了一群厨师，他们对Marchesi所言越来越清楚、贴近，并代表了意大利风味的未来。
Bottura没说的是，他本身就是领军人物。
“83岁的Marchesi是意大利最著名的厨师，1985年，他成为第一名荣获米其林三星的意大利名厨，旗下有一系列得奖餐厅，不过他的最大贡献，在于出版《The Marchesi Code》，精确并完整地提出了意大利烹饪的整套哲学。
Marchesi是前卫的，他给意大利风味下了定义，是他提出意大利菜的经典性，是他把我们带回到意大利菜的美的这个点。
对我来说，伦理和美学，就是意大利风味的未来。把握好Marchesi的整套意大利风味的美学理论和道德伦理，那就能到达意大利风味的未来。”
他不是说说就算。
Modena的山区有一种白色的小牛，每天只能产4公升的牛奶，这些小牛面临生存的问题，他们逐渐被一天能产10公升奶的牛群取代。Bottura说：“当人把关注点放在生意的时候，便失去生命里的其他美好，包括失去和大地的联系。还有，真实性。”
他看不过去，出手相救，拯救这种稀有的乳白色bianca Modenese牛只。
他说：“我不问价钱，因为我要找寻的是生命里其他更重要的东西。和许多人不一样的东西。”
when asked abt the biggest challenge facing italian cuisine, he brought up Gualtiero Marchesi, he was the first Italian chef to win three Michelin stars and at 83 years,still working, Marchesi is by far Italy’s most renowned chef; having created a string of award-winning restaurants and the culinary philosophy ‘Total Cuisine’, as set out in his seminal book, The Marchesi Code.
marchesi is avant gardist, he defined italian cuisine,and was the one to define it as classic, he was the one who brougght us to the beauty of italian cuisine. After Marchesi, there was a dark period of the 90s, there was the disappearing of identity, a lot of reflection, confusion.
By the beginning of the new century of 2000, there was a new italian cuisine emerging, there was much exploration, this group of chefs was getiing clear and clearer to what Marchesi was teaching and that was to the b the future of what italian cuisine would b.
He belongs to this group:”for me,the combination of ethics and aesthetic, the beauty of Marchesi’s definition and the slow food movement, combination of this 2 can create the new italian cuisine., whereby we do not forget the root n tradition.”
He does not just say ethics, but actively works it out, such as by saving a race of young white Bianca Modenese cows.
“These cows live in the upper hills of Modena and they milk 4litres of milk per day, but they are increasingly being replaced by those who milk 10litres a day.people are increasingly losing touch with authenticity, with the earth, as they begin to concentrate toward the business pt of view.”
So he is v v into transferrring emotions and authenticity this way.
“i m not asking about price, food cost is not my priority, because i m searching for different things in life.”
他是去年唯一受邀参加威尼斯双年展的名厨，主办单位邀他针对其一主题——“世界的语言”创作。
他说：“在意大利语，lingua和舌头的发音是一样的。我受艺术大师Lucio Fontana的启发，他最经典的作品就是用刀划破画布，似是在寻找第五空间那样。
我作了一道LA LINGUA DEL MONDO，在切开的鲈鱼上的一块牛舌，以低温烹煮，并在牛舌上摆放多种酱料，如有百香果、野苹果等。闭上眼睛吃，感受不同酱料的时候，感觉就像是绕了世界一圈。”
He was the only chef to be invited to the Biennale Venice 2010 to do a project on one of the themes, Lingua of the World
In Italian,lingua and tongue is the same word,so i was inspired by Lucio Fontana to do something. Fontana would cut his paintings with his knife, in search of the 5th dimension
“we were invited to express our world thru this project n in italian, lingua n tongue is the same word.i was inspired by Lucio Fontana, he makes painting with knives n cuts thru the canvas with knife, in search of the 5th dimension.
so i created a veal tongue n put different sauces of wild apple, passionfruit, jap styled, etc . so when u close ur eyes n eat the veal,n savour the different sauce,its like u travelling the world.”
他的作品仿佛能在人的舌尖上奏乐，总是让味蕾紧张、刺激起来，使之一刻也不得闲。在灵魂的休憩处这么挑衅，灵魂还能安逸吗？
事实上，Bottura的作品吸引更多艺术家注意，因为他显得诗意而简洁的创作往往充满深层的哲学表达、高度的概念性，映照出作品成型前深刻的钻研、探讨、反省还有热忱，绝对不失艺术之美名。
他说：“美食里确实有很多艺术的成分在，也有许多个人的感情，但它终究不是艺术，它是技巧、科学，艺术是能把你带领到另一层思维的，我们是工匠，厨房就是我们的工作坊。”
他不否认“音乐、艺术无时无刻在影响着我”，他的太太是来自纽约的艺术官长，朋友也是艺术家：“我是生活在艺术世界里的人，我像艺术家那样地在学习，但因为我也是厨师，即使脑子飞了，我得脚踏实地。”
那是否因此时常面对内在挣扎？
他说：“有时确实如此。秘诀就是把必须牢牢、实实地把双脚踩地上。在地上，那太重要了。我经常告诉我的工作同伴，我们是需要飞翔的，但我们也必须认认真真、实实在在地走入我们的每一天，在切、炒、待客之时，完全专注，却不在那样的深刻里丢失自己。
在厨房里，不能丢掉自己，必须深刻地知道自己是谁，从何而来，不然，怎么能处理好食物？美食是情感的传递，丢失了自己那么重要的一块不行，那是世界上最珍贵的，独一无二的。”
His work invited a lot of attention from artists, and are just as worthy of the name, art.But he insists:”cuisine is not art,its a lot of technique n science, yes there is a lot of feelings and some part of the artistic in there too. But art is something that takes u to another level of thinking, we are artisans, the kitchen is a workshop.”
He has been v much influenced by art though, he says :”art n music infleuence me all the time”
his wife is a curator and his friends are artists.
He says:” i live in the art world.i m learning as an artist,but as i m also a chef, i put my feet on the ground as my brain flies away.”
ask him if he feels torn between flying away and staying on the ground, and he says :”sometimes, but the secret lies in having your feet firmly planted on the ground,its v important to b on the ground. I always tell my staff in the kitchen, that we need to fly, but we also need to walk into our everyday without losing our everyday life, that in the chopping, sautee-ing,serving, concentrate so totally, yet not lose our selves in that.n in the kitchen, we do not forget who we r ,where u come fr,becoz when we transfer emotions, we have to know ourselves , its that unique in the world”
他的美食作品，是他驰骋飞翔的成果。有人形容为乖僻、有人形容为技术性情绪化，他则简单规结为“情绪化的料理。”
实际上不仅如此，也是深具概念意义、判断或批判意义，深刻且深情的。
asked abt his style, he says, its just emotional cuisine, altho there have been some who have tried so hard to categorise/come up with as special a category as techno emotional (bcoz he employs alot of techniques)
but its also very conceptual, judgemental, deep n soulful .
“我的料理也可以现代、当代概括之，是活在现在的料理。现在的大环境充满变数，烹饪的技巧、技术过去也许有到八成的重要性，但现在在我看来，只能占据最多四成。当下道德、伦理和味道占上风，因为在这个大环境，人们要的是真实性。不再是烟花。作为厨师，我必须在别人之前，接触到现实。但对于很多人来说，当代的创意总是在之后才被认同。”
他以2000年的一道Magnum di foie gras为例。
像是Wall’s冰淇淋的Magnum那样的造型，外壳是来自西西里岛的杏仁和皮埃蒙特的榛子，下面包裹的是鹅肝，冰淇淋棒的中心，他注入香醋。
位于意大利南北的西西里岛和意大利西北的皮埃蒙特，含盖的是整个意大利，鹅肝的中间喷出来自摩典那的40年特级古老香醋。摩典那是最优质的意大利食材的产地，是来自这里的香醋，充斥着鹅肝棒的中心。
时代周刊不得不将这道菜入籍“十道改变摩登料理”之列。
一个人要对生活对生命有多大的热忱？才能具足这样的创意？ 他究竟想说什么？
“我想传达的信息是，你可以用孩子般的乐趣，用手、而不是用刀、叉，去享受鹅肝——一道最势力的菜。那时做这道菜的时候，大家都感到疑惑不解。”
他的步伐太快，在太早的时候、在很多人还在酣睡时，已经在前卫的道路上驰骋。他说：“当代的表达总是在许久的未来之后才被大众了悟。”
此外，当代的作品也包含一种很深刻的反省。
“我在2011年的作品，不就是我个人的进化的表现吗？美食、料理，关乎的是反省这件事。”
he has a peculiar way of thinking, he says his cuisine is also v much contemporary
“its cuisine that lives in the now. values are changing today,in the past techniques make up 80%, but now its 40%, taste and ethic take up 60%, pple want real things, no more fireworks.contemporary cuisine requires u to b in touch with reality before others. contemporary is always understood afterwards.”
he uses his 2000 creation magnum di foie gras,which Time said was one of the “ten dishes that would change modern cuisine” as eg
he uses almonds fr sicily n hazelnuts fr piedmont to make the crust of the magnum, sicily n piedmont,encompassing the spine of whole italy.
the crust wraps the foie gras n into the foie gras, 40 year balsamic vinegar from his family in modena, where the finest quality italian produce finds its home, is injected into the foie gras
at heart, it is where modena lies.
my message was u could have one of the most snobbish dishes with the joy of a child, not with the fork n knife
he adds “the expression of contemporary is always received in the future”,
he also says, contemporary, coooking now in 2011 is also a reflection of my personal evolution ,its all abt reflection
他说，未来的挑战是如何把镁光灯从他自己转移到农夫、渔夫身上，借此让农人在整个饮食的运动中更清楚地感受到他们的重要性以及骄傲，让他们对工作激起另一种热忱。
the challenge is to realign n help move the lights on me to the farmers n fisherman, to let them feel dignified,so they can do their job better.
作品那么深刻，不被理解的情况会不会很多？
他耸耸肩说：“这很正常。我就像一只在水中的鲑鱼，冲着水和水流在前进，但我还是坚持要做那鲑鱼。不然，生命太没有满足感，那就不是忠于自己的作法了。”
asked about his frustration abt not being understood, he says :”its normal,i m like a salmon under the water,against the water and currents…but i stioll want to b tat salmon.if not, there will b no satisfaction , n it will not b true to myself”
问他在厨房最珍贵的一课，他想了许久：“最重要的是前辈、单纯。单纯、简约是厨房给我的回馈。越是简单、越是直接，越是深刻，越是到位，越是能触动人心。”
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